各校計畫成果

活動簡介

基礎科學研究及促進國際合作為本年度主要工作。氣候變遷暴露海岸的脆弱度，是以提升海岸韌性與研析防減災的作為係永續發展的重要環節。藉由發展嶄新的水深積分模式及建立基於生態防減災海岸防護框架為此計畫的核心。

The aim of this year’s work focuses on advancing fundamental scientific research and promoting international collaboration. Climate change has revealed the vulnerability of coastal zones; therefore, enhancing coastal resilience and developing disaster prevention and mitigation strategies are essential components of sustainable development. The core of this project lies in developing a novel depth-integrated model and establishing a coastal protection framework based on Eco-DRR (ecosystem-based disaster risk reduction), aiming to provide scientific evidence for adaptive coastal management and long-term sustainability.

本年度工作專注於精進基礎學術研究及促進國際交流。學術研究部分主要貢獻有三：其一，劉院士領導的團隊首創能精確模擬剪力流與波浪交互作用並通過複雜地形的水深積分模式，為新世代水動力模式的發展奠下基礎；次之，則修正了自1976年以來廣泛使用之波浪理論適用圖表，釐清長達近五十年的理論謬誤，重新奠定波浪理論的正確基礎；於末，深入探討近岸風浪對台灣東岸風暴潮的影響，結果顯示颱風波浪能量消散後造成的波揚可使水位提升約20–50%，再次驗證波浪與風暴潮模式耦合對預報準確度的重要性。

國際交流上，劉院士希望促成臺灣與亞洲島鏈地區與國家的合作，藉由劉院士廣泛的人脈協助建立成大與相關研究單位長期之研究關係，如建立沿岸觀測平台共享觀測資料以發展及精進多重尺度與物理量耦合之水動力數值模式，甚至是發掘更多未解之海洋物理機制等。與日韓等鄰近國家的海岸工程學界合作研究亦是目標之一，目前已與京都大學防災研究所針對基於紅樹林之生態防減災進行共同研究，係藉由成大水工所大型波浪水槽進行全尺度水動力實驗。

This year’s work focuses on advancing fundamental academic research and promoting international collaboration. The academic contributions can be summarized in three major achievements. First, under the leadership of Professor Liu, the research team developed an original depth-integrated model capable of accurately simulating the interaction between shear flows and waves over complex topography, laying the foundation for next-generation hydrodynamic modeling. Second, the team revised the wave-theory applicability chart that has been widely used since 1976, correcting nearly fifty years of theoretical misconceptions and reestablishing a sound theoretical basis for wave mechanics. Third, an in-depth investigation into the influence of nearshore wind waves on storm surges along Taiwan’s eastern coast revealed that wave setup resulting from the dissipation of typhoon wave energy can raise the water level by approximately 20–50%, reaffirming the critical importance of coupling wave and storm-surge models for improving forecast accuracy.

In terms of international collaboration, Professor Liu seeks to strengthen partnerships between Taiwan and other nations within the Asian island chain. Leveraging his extensive professional network, he aims to establish long-term cooperative relationships between NCKU and related research institutions, such as developing shared coastal observation platforms to exchange monitoring data, enhancing multi-scale hydrodynamic modeling, and uncovering unresolved oceanic physical mechanisms. Collaborative research with neighboring countries, including Japan and Korea, is also a goal. A joint study with the Disaster Prevention Research Institute of Kyoto University is currently underway, focusing on Eco-DRR (ecosystem-based disaster risk reduction) through full-scale hydrodynamic experiments conducted in the supertank at Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory, NCKU.